What a visit to Varanasi taught me about Modi's popularity

One has to give the Narendra Modi government credit for one thing at least - bring up any conversation about it or about what is happening in the country, and the discussion is bound to get very heated.

In one such conversation, I heard someone argue fiercely that Modi's policies are all long-term, to bring in achche din. His policies are not for short-lived gains, keeping only the next election in mind. They will reap benefits after 10 years or more. And then the benefits will be amazing.

Well. Ask a driver in Varanasi.

The average pay per month for a driver is Rs 5,000, which is a decent pay bracket to say the least, considering how many people are unemployed. He is very worried about the rising prices of all essential commodities. On being asked why he voted for the government, his answer is very clear. He says the first time, his community voted for the BJP because they promised a credit of nothing less than Rs 15 lakh in each voter's bank account. "We went berserk opening our accounts. Some people had papers, most did not. It was madness. But we all did it," he said.

Some would say it's a good thing that so many new bank accounts were opened. "But nothing came in them. They gave us false promises," he said.

His friend sitting with him continued, "We voted for Yogi ji because we wanted to see if the money would actually come. We said ok, let us give them another chance."

Has the money come?

"Oh no, there is no money and we don't use our accounts at all. Our sahib pays us in cash. Besides, I no longer believe Modi can get the black money back to India, a move that was to get us the Rs 15 lakh in our accounts. I have lost hope and I do not believe any of his promises. It was all for our vote," he said.

The BJP machinery on the ground wormed itself into each little corner of the state, promising the people, who barely managed to live, a bonanza in exchange of votes. There was no reason for them not to win the election.

It is difficult to imagine how Modi made that promise. However, seeing the current state of the economy, it is clear that Modi's magic is waning.

There is a general sense of gloom given the economic slowdown. There is a general distress that the common man is going through. That gloom has been shared by former finance minister Yashwant Sinha in a piece published in The Indian Express. Sinha has raised the demand for immediate corrective steps to fix the economy.

The economic mess and the accompanied despondency have flared communal passions. Many are angry with the Muslims for eating into their resources. "It is all because of the Muslims," people say.

"They should be moved to a settlement outside the city. They are eating our jobs. Why should they stay here? Now, Modiji will clean up the city in the true sense."

On being asked how a city where all the weavers and the karigars are Muslims will survive without them, there is silence.

People have been fed divisive thoughts. But they haven't turned into hardened communalists yet. They do realise that they are victims in a political game.

"They [political parties] pit brothers against brothers. I am only concerned about the welfare of my family. I have no time to play politics or communal games," a man said.

There is disillusionment in Varanasi but 2019 is not too far away.

Also read: What I think about Amit Shah (and how he has rebuilt BJP)