Nepal earthquake: Rahul Kanwal on reporting from ground zero

Mind games

One of the toughest things to do after an earthquake is to sleep well at night. That's because tremors start messing with your mind. Often, at night, you wake up with a start when you feel the floor shake violently. After that, you are subconsciously looking out for the next temblor. When you stretch your body, you feel a tremor only to realise that it's your mind that is quaking. And sometimes you feel nothing, but then see those around you rushing out of the building for safety. That's when you decide it's safest to stay awake. 

Tourists turn into relief workers

Several foreign tourists fled Kathmandu in the first 48 hours after the quake. Many have also chosen to stay back to help with the relief efforts. What were earlier trekking expeditions have now turned into humanitarian missions with hundreds of tourists signing up as volunteers with international and local NGOs. I asked Rick Altos from the United States whether he was scared he may get caught in another quake. His reply: "Honestly, I'm more scared of being run over by the unruly traffic in Kathmandu." 

Treasure hunters strike

The UNESCO World Heritage site of Durbar Square in Kathmandu has been reduced to rubble. Buried in debris are beautiful statues and intricate wood carvings of ancient temples, which are worth a fortune at auctions in the West. At a time when the Nepalese army and the police are busy with rescue and relief operations, thieves are having a field day foraging through the ruins. Locals have managed to catch a gang of thieves in the act, while security has since been tightened in the area. Given the increasing law and order problems across the country, it is impossible for the police to guard the debris 24x7. Many of Nepal's ancient treasures could be lost forever. 

Route aid through government channels

Many people have been arrested and moved by the images of devastation beaming on their television screens, and call to ask how they can help. The most effective way to help Nepal is to route whatever relief material you wish to send through government agencies. The government in Nepal has asked all private NGOs to stay away. All help is being distributed by the Nepal army. The problem with private aid is that most of the NGOs end up going only to those towns and villages that are easily accessible to them. This leads to the duplication of effort at some places and no help reaching those who need it the most, at other sites. At a time when anger and frustration are growing among quake victims, it is not safe to try and distribute aid privately. This reporter saw hungry and thirsty quake victims loot a private relief truck. The government may be slow and inefficient, but it is still your best bet for a good cause at this time. 

India versus China and Pakistan

With Modi government going all out to help Nepal, India's friends in the neighbourhood are feeling left out. China and Pakistan, it is believed, have complained to the Nepalese government that the Modi sarkar is more interested in self-promotion than in genuinely helping. Reporters accompanying Indian relief helicopter missions were cited as an example of Indian aggrandisement. Much to the dismay of Indian media, the Nepali government since has barred journalists from accompanying relief helicopters. The concerned Army and Air Force officers tried to explain that they were willing to carry Nepali, Pakistani and Chinese journalists so that the world could gauge how bad the situation actually was. After a 24-hour deadlock, better sense prevailed and now even international journalists are accompanying Indian Air Force's rescue helicopters to far-flung areas of the quake ravaged country. 

What are you doing on a rescue sortie?

At a time when journalists are being labeled #Presstitutes on social media, many are asking them why they have been occupying space on rescue sorties, and why they are not letting the Air Force rescue more victims instead. This charge needs to be answered. Journalists are not accompanying helicopters that are going to high altitudes for rescue missions. Hacks are only being sent on transport helicopters that are ferrying relief material. The copter is first loaded with all the relief material that needs to be taken to a particular area and then liaison officers assess whether the cargo weight allows for extra passengers to be taken on board. It's only after all the operational requirements have been met that journalists are allowed to board a relief sortie.  

Kudos Nepal's Army

For decades now, the more than one lakh strong Nepali army have been seen by the people as the "puppets" of the King. But the exemplary effort and selflessness of soldiers during the post quake rescue and relief, have won the hearts of many across the country. While the Nepali Congress Party government of prime minister Sushil Koirala has garnered heavy criticism from the people for its sloth, the army is drawing high praise. Army men have helped clear blocked roads, accompanied relief trucks and even swept the debris lying on the streets. Each person being pulled out alive by the Nepali army is being wildly cheered by the people. 

The other face of RSS

The Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS) is seen by many in India as a communal and divisive force. But Nepal saw the humanitarian face of the RSS in the post earthquake relief operations. Close to 1,000 swayamsevaks have been working round the clock since last Saturday. The RSS set up a special helpline at its Kathmandu headquarters, at Keshab Dham, within three hours of the quake. The helpline has received more than 10,000 calls from all over the world and volunteers claim to have helped connect 6,000 people with their families. Leading the RSS' charge at ground zero is Dattatreya Hosabale, the number two man in the Sangh hierarchy. And contrary to public perception about the RSS, volunteers have been helping Christians, Buddhists and Muslims too without discriminating on the basis of religion. 

Trousseau hunting amid debris

Amidst the debris, the cycle of life peddles on. Wedding preparations were in full swing at the homes of Narayan Tiwari and Amrita Nepal in Sindhupalchok district, when the earthquake struck on Saturday. Both their houses were badly damaged and they were forced to sleep in the open for the next four days. But earthquake, aftershocks and incessant rainfall could not come in the way of Narayan tying the knot. The wedding wasn't quite the lavish affair that Amrita had been dreaming of. She had to hunt for her trousseau amid the debris. Fortunately, she found her wedding sari. Narayan, however, wasn't so lucky. He had to get hitched in a shirt and jeans. The couple camped in a makeshift tent on their wedding night. 

Disaster selfies

With the tremors now reducing in frequency and intensity, the residents of Kathmandu are gingerly walking around taking stock of the damage. The Dharahara Tower, which was built in 1882, suffered heavy damages during the quake and has become the busiest disaster tourism destination. Thousands have already flocked to see the tower, which has been cut in the middle. Some of those from the selfie-obsessed generation could not resist the temptation of capturing the site on camera, amidst the ruins. Many were seen walking around with their helmets on, just in case the sky came falling on their heads, yet again. 

Fear fuels paranoia

As you walk around the streets of Kathmandu, you see dozens of people with masks on their faces. When you ask them why, they say friends have sent them WhatsApp messages about a mass epidemic that has struck Nepal after the quake. Sundry "Babas" too are fuelling the paranoia, making wild predictions of a bigger earthquake that is supposed to be on its way. With fear stoking paranoia, no one is stopping to ask why these super-perceptive babas were not able to predict the earthquake when it first struck. The Koirala government has now announced that it will come down heavily on those who indulge in rumour mongering. 

Takes more than determination

Led by their director general OP Singh, some ten teams of the National Disaster Relief Force (NDRF) have been doing a stellar job looking for life amid the ruins. These teams have penetration radars, sniffer dogs and tons of determination. What they don't have is the latest technology, which is available with the French and American rescue teams. The international rescue teams have equipment that allows them to pick up even the faintest signs of life. It gives them a precise sense of where they need to drill, which is also why the French and the Americans have been able to pull out more people alive from the debris than anybody else. The Modi sarkar should immediately procure the same equipment for our NDRF personnel as well, so that they have more to rely on than mere determination. 

Saviours from the sky

Pilots of the Indian Air Force have been assigned the toughest flight paths by the Kathmandu control centre. Despite the absence of proper helipads whilst they brave inclement weather, IAF helicopter pilots have been carrying tons of equipment to the most affected areas. On the first such sortie in the Dhading area, IAF pilots distributed all the relief material they had been carrying. But many victims did not get any relief and started to get desperate. Without any hesitation, wing commander Amit Sood asked his navigator to leave behind the food that had been packed for the crew, reflecting the selfless spirit of the Indian armed forces. 

Learn from foreigners

While the Indian government had mounted, by far, the largest relief and rescue operation in Kathmandu, its citizens were getting angry with their government. There was sloganeering at the airport and passengers heckled the Air Force and airline staff running the rescue sorties. Indian tourists should learn from the foreigners, who were calmly lining up in queues, waiting for their turn to be rescued. Patience is a key virtue in times of crisis.