How the humble tomato made it from Latin America to Rs 160 per kg in India

As tomato prices soar across India due to adverse weather conditions and increasing fuel costs, various governments are catching up on efforts to control it or make it accessible. The buzz around tomato prices skyrocketing past Rs 160 a kilogram is anyway going to fade out in some time.

Perhaps, in light of the current situation, it's worth delving into the story of this fruit (yes, fruit) to realise that it was brought into India from Latin America and was not always an essential ingredient in Indian kitchens.

Journey to India

• The humble tomato, a fruit that is mostly treated as a vegetable, reached India in the 16th century with the arrival of Portuguese traders, alongside potatoes, tobacco and chillies.
• However, its usage was limited to specific regions conducive to the growth of the 'yellow apple'.
• Things took a turn in the 18th century, when the British colonisation encouraged tomato cultivation extensively in India, primarily for export.

• Then upper Uttar Pradesh (now Uttarakhand) became a significant hub for tomato cultivation due to its favourable climate.
• The early variant of tomatoes in India was sour and elongated, primarily used as a taste enhancer.
• Since then, India has witnessed tremendous progress with numerous new varieties coming in, to now cultivate around 7,000 tomato varieties to suit diverse culinary needs.

Journey prior to India

• The tomato's journey across the Western world is equally fascinating.
• Its introduction evoked suspicion and fear due to its association with the poisonous 'nightshade family' and its yellow colour.
• However, its adoption as an ornamental plant in the Western world persisted until the early 19th century.
• The tomato's popularity in Europe soared when Italians embraced it and named it "pomodoro" (meaning "Golden Apple").
• France referred to it as "pomme d'amour" (meaning "love apple").
• It was not until the 20th century that the tomato gained widespread popularity in the United States.
• Its journey to Asia began from Latin America via the Philippines, ultimately reaching India.

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How important is tomato to Indians now?

• Prior to the tomato's arrival, Indian curries and dishes relied on a variety of other souring agents like tamarind, kokum; something that communities in Southern India still use.
• In many parts of South India, the Northeast, and regions like Jammu and Kashmir, the tomato remains a lesser-used ingredient.
• However, in North India, where gravies often feature the onion-tomato-ginger-garlic combination, the tomato's popularity and usage remain high.
• Nevertheless, the tomato's prominence as a staple ingredient can be attributed to its colonial history and influence when the present-day thick curry was taking shape.

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However, the short break of the tomato should not deter one's culinary spirits. Exploring traditional recipes and embracing alternative ingredients can provide an opportunity to reimagine our dishes during tomato price hikes.