A rat temple in Bordertown Bikaner, where whiskey is offered to the goddess

"Yeh nashili hawa, aa raha hai maza," the Hindi classic began playing on the radio. The melody triggered memories in my mind, and I soon recalled that it was my grandfather's ringtone, which I had to set to this specific one. He called it a 'classic' by Manna Dey, Suman Hemadi Kalyanpur. 

The air in Bikaner, where I was, had a similar quality to the one described in the song - 'nashili' - invigorating and refreshing, and not polluted like in Delhi, which is where I live and work.

To be completely honest, I had no idea what to expect from Bikaner. Sure, I had heard stories about my 'ancestral Marwari culture', about the kings, and the camel rides and the sand dunes, but my anxious mind was already fraught with frustration due to the 'technical issues' that delayed our flight there. But the mystical land of Bikaner eased my worries as I gazed out of the car window.

'Khamagani, Padharo' - that's Rajasthani for 'Namaste, Welcome' - said a smiling hotel staff, clad in crisp white-collared uniform, making me feel at 'home' in this enchanting city.

I don't know what made me feel closer to my culture, but it had definitely to do something with the property where I was staying for two days. The property, Brij Gaj Kesari, which took us an hour to tour, was completely inspired by Marwari and Bikaner culture. 

But it wasn't the huge 30-acre property that fascinated me the most; it was the little pieces of artwork that the walls of this hotel were peppered with that caught my attention and I wasn't able to take my eyes off.

"Everything you see here are of three types: Usta art (a local form of artwork that uses gold hues and heavy detailing, dedicated to nature and living things), the miniature paintings (small-scale, highly detailed paintings which generally use natural colours), and Basawan art (a kind of art inspired by the Marwari culture), which inspired the architecture of the property," says Abhay Singh, sales manager at Brij Gaj Kesari. 

Here's what it looks like: 

At 26 km from the Bikaner airport, in the midst of nature and away from the noise of the city, this hotel has a total of 40 rooms; divided into three parts: Karni Mahal, Mohini Mahal, and the Art Deco room.

Each room in itself is a work of art: The rooms were hand-painted keeping with the Usta art theme, with a slight touch of Europe; the large French windows complemented the Indian paintings, making the room a perfect spot to just chill in.

Bikaner: The unexplored 

Rajeev Kr Manhar, the vice-president of Brij Hotels, explains that in his 10-year business, he has seen people talk about Jaipur or Jodhpur but not enough about Bikaner. Hence, choosing to have a hotel in Bikaner. 

One of the reasons why Manhar says he sees a lot of potential in his property is because he sees a lot of potential in the city to become a famous tourist destination.

Out and about in Bikaner

My first day in Bikaner went by really fast: I spent the day just chilling by the pool and eating a three-course scrumptious vegetarian Marwari meal, which I thoroughly enjoyed (my Grandmom will be very proud!), and watching Taylor Swift on the TV (guess I was just doing leisure things at a leisure property). 

On Day 2, we set out to explore, Bikaner - the old city and the new one both. 

Bikaner is a fairly old city. In 1486, the Rajput ruler Rao Bika built this place. So, art, culture and heritage are everywhere you go.

Here's a quick Bikaner itinerary (bookmark for your trip):

Karni Mata Temple: The hunt for the White Rat and a Whiskey bottle for the goddess

Why am I talking about rats here? Well, the Karni Mata temple is known for rats. From the moment you enter the temple, you can see the engravings of rats (all with meanings of their own) to the rats IRL. 

Vasim Ahmed, our guide, who has been in this business for more than 20 years, explains the mystical story of the 'rat' temple, which was built even before the city was.

During my time in the temple, I noticed that the locals were not only enjoying the live music and offering whiskey to the goddess, they also seemed to be actively searching for something. 

Ahmed said that they were on the lookout for a white rat, as it is believed to be an incarnation of the goddess, Karni Mata. If you manage to spot one, it is considered good fortune.

(fyi, the rats were not very jumpy and were generally minding their own business) 

Junagarh Fort and the cultural and architectural heritage of Bikaner

The Junagarh Fort in Bikaner is known for some stunning architecture. Built in the 16th century by Raja Rai Singh, the fort is a remarkable blend of Mughal, Rajput and Gujarati styles of architecture. 

The fort's impressive features include the Anup Mahal, the Diwan-e-Khas, the Chandra Mahal, the Ganga Mahal, and the Har Mandir, each with its unique charm and character.  

The fort also houses a museum that showcases a remarkable collection of weapons, paintings, costumes, and other artifacts from the region's history. 

Jain Temple: Miniature paintings and the foundation of ghee 

If you are a fan of art and culture and history, the Jain temple of Bikaner must be on your list. One of the oldest monuments in the city, the Jain Temple is a 15th-Century temple that was built by a merchant.

What's so special?

Apart from being centuries old, the temple is a breathtaking masterpiece of architecture and design. Rajasthani craftsmanship (the only complete miniature-painted temple in the world) meets intricate carvings and sculptures here. The temple is dedicated to the 5th Tirthankara, Sumatinath. Why it is unique is that the foundation of the temple was laid with limestone powder and ghee. 

The Havelis 

Upon passing the lanes of Bikaner, you can also see a number of palaces and Havelis, which were previously owned by the Rajputs and are passed on from generation to generation. While some of them have been taken over by famous hotel chains and converted into resorts, some you can still visit. 

The Miniature Artist: A Guinness world record holder

An art-lover heaven is Bikaner Miniature Arts, near Kirti Stambh Circle. This place is home to some of the smallest paintings in the world, with work very delicate and precise. For two consecutive years (2002, 2003) Shiv Swami, the store owner and miniature artist, has held the Guinness world record for the world's smallest paintings.

Swami has learnt this art through generations and uses only natural paint for his paintings.

So, how small are his miniature paintings?

• His paintbrush is the size of a squirrel's hair and he works constantly with a magnifying glass. 
• He uses only natural colours obtained through the natural process like a certain kind of green from moss. 

The sand dunes

If you visit 'Camel Country' Bikaner and not do camel rides, you're missing out on something. Camels here are as much a mode of transport as they are for touristy rides.

If you like a little adventure, you can opt for camel safaris in Raisar village. The view of the city and the sunset here is magnificently peaceful. 

But if you are like me, for whom vacation actually means that you should just roll in your bed or sit by the pool in peace, staying at a property like Brij Gaj Kesari, will be a good option.

Apart from the view of and from the property, it also served delicious Rajasthani food with a twist. 

At the property, try special Marwari delicacies like Sangri ki Sabji, Gatte ki Sabji or Bhutta ka Soup; and of course, desserts like a hot steaming Gulab Jamun or Dal ka Halwa. 

The vegetable that the restaurant uses are procured mostly from local farmers (brownie points for sustainability); and by next monsoon, the property aims to start their own farm. 

Bottom Line: If you are planning your next trip to Rajasthan, try Bikaner this time instead of Jaipur or Jodhpur. Bikaner is less crowded, and also offers a look into the rich Rajasthani art, culture, and heritage. 

And if you stay at a property like the Brij Gaj Kesari, plan a day or two extra, because trust me, you would not want to leave the hotel. 

Where

• The hotel is located roughly 12 kilometres from the main city of Bikaner.
• Shown on map
• It is located about 22 kilometres from the Nal Airport in Bikaner and 13 kilometres from Bikaner Junction.

Tariff: Prices per night start at Rs 6,000 (breakfast included; single person). 

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