Why Kumaonis celebrate Holi in winter
Even before Christmas festivities take over the town, Holi celebrations begin every year in one of the most picturesque regions of India - the Kumaon Himalayas.
At the height of winter, on the first Sunday of the month of Pausha in Hindi calendar, begins the traditional “Baithaki Holi” of Kumaon region in Uttarakhand - a festival with its musical “mehfils” that brighten up the winter evenings in the hills every year. This year, the first Sunday of Pausha falls on December 10.
Although Holi celebrations of Mathura and Vrindavan are quite famous, the festivities in Kumaon, not so widely known, are very different from how people welcome the festival of colours anywhere else in the country.
Holi in Kumaon is a festival of rhythm and melody. Folk songs, of course, form a part of Holi celebrations elsewhere, but compositions based on ragas of Hindustani classical music make the Kumaoni Holi so different and fascinating.
The “baithhaks” begin in households across the region with various ragas being sung. Most of these baithaks are attended by the menfolk.
“Mahila Holi” begins after the festival of Basant as women visit their friends and sing and dance to the accompaniment of folk music instruments like the “dhol” and “manjira”.
For the rest of the country, Holi may be just a festival of colours, but for Kumaonis, it acquires another, extremely rich, dimension when it is linked to the rich Hindustani classical music tradition. Ragas lend their depth and melody to the festival long before Holi is being actually played. Amid the severity of the winter comes this melodious promise of the forthcoming spring as the hills echo with the beautiful notes of classical music.
The Baithaki Holi begins from the premises of temples, where Holiyars (the professional singers of Holi songs) as also other people gather to sing classical ragas. It is one of the most fascinating aspects of Kumaon’s culture.
At noon, songs based on Peelu, Bhimpalasi and Sarang ragas are sung while evenings are reserved for songs based on ragas like Kalyan, Shyam Kalyan and Yaman. The compositions are sung in Hindi, Braj bhasha and Kumaoni dialects.
There is a spiritual touch evident in the choice of songs. The harmonium and tabla are important for the Baithaki Holi. After the Baithaki Holi, begins the “Khadi" or "Thhadi" Holi, a week before Holi, and this makes the shift from sitting to getting up and dancing to celebrate the advent of spring in the hills.
Khadi Holi is mostly celebrated in the rural areas of Kumaon. The songs of Khari Holi are sung by people, sporting traditional white kurtas, churidar pyjamas and “nokdaar topis”, dancing in groups to the tune of Kumaon folk musical instruments like dhol and "hurka".
Kumaonis residing anywhere in the country or abroad religiously celebrate the “Baithhaki”, “Khadi” and “Mahila” Holis.
Kumaoni folk music has its roots in nature. It has the feel and the touch of nature and subjects related to nature.
The Himalayas have inspired generations of singers and musicians throughout the ages. The natural beauty of the mountains evokes a deep spirituality and this strain is reflected in the music of the hills.
The Kumaoni folk music is primarily related to the various festivals, religious traditions, folk stories and the simple lifestyle of the people.
The musical tradition of Holi goes back to the 15th century Champawat court of the Chand Kings (1400 to 1790 AD) and the adjoining regions of Kalikumaun, Sui and Gumdesh where the musical traditions of Braj mixed with Kumaoni conventions. With the spread of Chand rule and integration of Kumaon under them, Holi traditions spread across Kumaon and acquired their distinct Kumaoni flavour.
This is a time for nostalgia, time to look back and remember times and people gone by. As spring begins to paint the Himalayan landscape in its colours, expression of joy, spiritual rejuvenation and leisure emerges strongly in the voices of those who sing at the Holi baithhaks.
The evenings stretch into cold and long winter nights as one “Holi” after another echoes in the hills. From myths and legends, the subjects of the baithhak songs move into the territory of “shringar” and “saundarya” after Basant Panchami, which has always been associated with love and romance.
In the first phase, which is also called “Nirvan ki Holi”, the songs that are chosen are deeply spiritual.
A sacred aspect about the Baithaki Holi is that once a family hosts it, it has to carry on doing it every year. Endless cups of tea and "machwani" are served to the singers (guests). Machwani, a watery milk brew laced with ginger and black pepper to give it a warm edge, is made for the Holi Baithhaks.
Gujiyas, gur (jaggery), aloo gutkas, badis and papads are the special dishes served at the baithhaks.
One of the very popular Holis (songs) is:
“Jal kaise bharun Jamuna gehri/
Thhadi bharun, Raja Ramji dekhen,
Baithee bharun, bheejey chunri/
Jal kaise bharun, Jamuna gehri
Dheere Chalun ghar saas buri hai/
Dhamki chalun, chhalke gagri /
jal kaise bharun, Jamuna gehri."
References to Shiv, Vishnu, Rama and Sita are very frequent in the “holis". Radha and Krishna songs dominate the sittings. During each baithhak, an invitation is extended to all present by the person who wishes to host the next musical sitting. Baithhaks organised by various institutions bring together all members of the community residing in that area to enjoy the melodious event.
Happy Holi!
Also read: A thriller writer explains why he sets his books in Kumaon